Carmel-by-the-Sea

Vizcaino named the river here after Palestine's Mount Carmel (probably with the encouragement of several Carmelite friars accompanying his expedition).

The town of Carmel was established in 1904 by a group of artist and writers as a bucolic retreat. As the settlement grew (particularly after the 1906 San Francisco quake), it founders fought the encroachment of paved streets, gas, electricity and other modern amenities, and stringent zoning ordinances have preserved Carmel.

Upton Sinclair, Sinclair Lewis, Robinson Jeffers, Jack London, Ansel Adams, and Edward Weston all lived here for a period of time.

The much-publicized election of 1986 brought Clint Eastwood into the mayor's office. Mayor Eastwood successfully campaigned against the longstanding no-growth policies and old-timers' prohibitions against eating ice cream in public, skateboarding, wearing high heels on sidewalks, throwing balls in the park, and other serious community crimes.

Some unusual laws still remain: no streetlights, traffic signals, sidewalks, street signs, house numbers, neon signs, and jukeboxes.

The Hog's Breath Inn (on San Carlos between 5th & 6th) is Clint's restaurant (he's half owner). As mayor, Eastwood fought with the former city council (ultimately suing) to add on the adjacent office complex; this controversy over "village atmosphere" launched his 4 year political career. Open for lunch 11:30am-3pm, for dinner 5-10pm ph: 408-625-1044

Robinson Jeffer's Tor House (26304 Ocean View Ave) was built by poet Robinson Jeffer's, who hauled the huge stones up from the beach below with a team of horses. Jeffer's built the three-story Hawk Tower (complete with a secret passage) for his wife Una. On the day he died here, January 20, 1961, it snowed - a rare event along any stretch of California's coast. One of Jeffer's twin sons, Donnan, and family sill live at Tor House.

Carmel Mission Ranch, behind the mission (26270 Dolores) is the traditional place to stay in town. The bunkhouse, farmhouse, old creamery (now the dining room/bar) and the dancehall (once a cow barn) are over a century old. There are advantages to having a wealthy mayor, as Carmelites found out when developers recently proposed a condominium development at Mission Ranch. Locals were up in arms, so Mayor Clint Eastwood himself bought the place for about $5 million, with the promise to preserve its in perpetuity.

The Carmel Mission (3080 Rio Rd), or more properly Mission Basilica San Carlos Borromeo del Rio Carmelo, was California's second mission. It was originally established at the Monterey Presidio in 1770, then moved here the following year. One time headquarters and favorite foreign home of Father Junipero Serra (whose remains are buried at the foot of the altar in the sanctuary), the mission was completed in 1797.