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San Janu Bautista

Named for John the Baptist, the 1797 Spanish mission of San Juan Bautista is the center of this community. The historic plaza has been the rallying point for two revolutions, one-time home of the famed bandit Tiburcio Vasquez, and the setting for the Jimmy Stewart and Kim Novak's mission scenes in Vertigo.

But one of the most colorful characters ever to stumble off the stage at San Juan Bautista was one-eyed stagecoach driver Charley Parker. "He," however, was a woman, born Charolette Parkhurst in New Hampshire. Charlie voted in Santa Cruz in 1866, 50 years before American women were given the right to vote.

Mission San Juan Bautista was partly destroyed by earthquakes in 1800 and 1906 (the San Andreas Fault is just 40 feet away), and has been restored many times. The 15th and largest of the Franciscan settlements in California, it was founded on June 24, 1797. In recognition of its importance, a set of nine bells once graced the chapel area; now only three remain. It is the only mission with a three-aisle entrance to the altar.

San Juan Bautista State Historic Park includes the old Plaza Hotel, built in 1858 on the site of the old Spanish soldier's barracks. In horse and buggy days San Juan Bautista was a major stage stop between San Francisco and Los Angeles, and the hotel was famous statewide. Note the two story outhouse out back.

The 1840 Castro House served as headquarters of the Mexican government and later the home of the Patrick Breen family, survivors of the ill-fated Donner party. Other attractions include the 1868 Zanetta House, gardens, a Spanish orchard, and a livery stable with old wagons. Daily 10-430 Admission $2 ph: 408-623-4881

Pagan Hill is located above the town. There's a giant concrete cross today where mission fathers once put up a wooden one, intended to ward off evil spirits supposedly summoned by Indians neophytes secretly practicing their traditional earth religion.

 

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